Friday, May 29, 2009

Getting ready to throw down the gauntlet, but first...


Ok ok ok, so I said that I'm dedicating this blog to nutrition, and my full intent is to experiment on myself and go on a nutritionally balanced diet. I am getting married on July 4th so that's motivation. But this blog is also dedicated to what I eat in general and and as such, I've got to be honest, I haven't been dieting. Not at all. In fact I've been in New York eating everything I damn well please the last week. And it was good!

The best place by far, we stumbled upon by chance on our very first day. On the outside it just read 'Trattoria' but the real name is Trattoria Casa di Isaaco because Isaac Elvis (he's a fan), is the name of the owner. The place is located in Hell's kitchen at 536 9th Ave.
We passed by the red awning and saw the giant Jamon Serranos hanging in the window and just had a good feeling about it. But when we walked in at 12.30pm, the place was empty. This was a worrisome sign and as we chose our table, under a hanging ham and across from a mounted lobster, we all had our doubts. We were immediately approached by an ebullient man, who was half mafia and half Don Juan and who acquainted us with the specials with such gusto that it was as if he was tasting each dish he described. As we were not ready to order, he obliged us with the actual menus. We decided on the grilled calamari, seafood risotto, linguine with clams and a lobster salad. Not knowing what to expect we waited eagerly as the delicious food video playing in the background made our mouths water. I heard Isaac Elvis cutting bread in the back and then it seemed he was back in the kitchen, while checking in on us every few minutes. This was a one man show, he was cook, host, maitre'd, and charmer. As we later found out he was also bartender, wine maker and designer of the interior of the restaurant, not to mention singer and former green beret.

The first dish came out and we knew we had done well. The sizzling tapas-style plate was brought to our table and unveiled with pride like a work of art. The aroma of garlic and rosemary filled our senses and we practically devoured the tenderest and most succulent calamari we'd ever had. The risotto was more like a paella than a traditional risotto, but also delicious as was the linguine with home made clam sauce and the lobster salad, garnished with hearts of palm.

Throughout our meal, Isaac Elvis kept us constant company, my only wish was that he could sit down at the table with us. When we learned that he made his own wine, although the meal was finished we had to try his home made sangria. He was happy to oblige. The glasses came full of ice and fresh-cut pears and when the fruit mingled with the aromatic red liquid, it was like we were sipping nectar directly from a flower. Needless to say, it was the best sangria any of us had ever had. Isaac Elvis shared with us the not so secret ingredients responsible for our bliss-Cointreau and Brandy!

As we were slowly winding our way through the carafe, a plate of moist, flavorful manchego cheese accompanied by huge terracotta-colored olives magically appeared, followed by a plate of perfectly aged jamon serrano. And when we thought life couldn't get much better the table had one more gift to bestow on us-another carafe of sangria. We were drunk and full and happy, and though uncertain of what more indulgence would do, we finished the second pitcher gladly. Everyone felt mellow, but none of us were the worst for wear and were able to walk back the 20 or so hot blocks to the Chelsea Hotel quite comfortably. When we came in the trattoria had been empty, when we left three hours later it was packed, and though we were sad to have to share in the attentions of our gracious host, we were happy that he was in no danger of being lonely.

It was an amazing meal and we are seriously considering taking advantage of Virgin's incredible fares ($79-New York on any Tuesday) to jet back for a weekend just so that we could partake of another pitcher of that sangria and the incredible-looking seafood paella you can see in the video in the link below. Thank you Isaac Elvis, we will certainly be returning!

http://www.trattoriacasadiisacco.com/

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

something smells good


Want to know a lot about a person in under five minutes? Ask them to list some of their favorite smells. They may look at you funny, but go ahead, ask.

Here are a few of mine:

Smoke, especially from fall leaves raked into a backyard fire, Nag Champa incense, cigarettes as long as they're outside. Garlic sizzling in olive oil. Parmesan cheese. Jasmine. His warm skin first thing this morning. The green stem of a tomato on a vine. Churches. Onions grilled in a taco wagon at 3am. Ripe old leather. Basil. Wild strawberries. The cork, fresh pulled from a luscious Pinot. The ocean when it's windy. The scruff of my cat's neck. Wet pavement 3 minutes into the first rain. A just split cucumber on a 90 degree day. Lilacs. Popovers 20 minutes after you put them in the oven. Pepper syrup. 18 year old Glenfarclas, warmed by hand. Snow. Carnitas at "El Farolito". My mom's cabbage pie baking in the oven, meaning guests are on their way. Any orchestra pit in the world.


The word kitchen is embedded in my last name, and so it is not surprising that I come from a family that loves to cook as much as eat. In my family, feeding someone is an expression of love, and as much as I've tried to instill in both my mom and her mom that a lot of love does not have to equal a lot of food, I've failed every time. So while I inherited the ancestral fondness for throwing dinner parties, I didn't want to intimidate my guests with a table creaking with food no matter how delicious. Besides, the women in my family don't keep recipes so I had to find my own way. It all started with an illicit affair with Chez Panisse.

Ever since I was a little kid I've loved going out to eat, but my inner foodie woke up when I started dreaming of dinner behind those ornamented wooden gates. I don't remember how I first heard of it, but I do remember making frequent trips to worship at the altar of their menu, and while my fellow teenagers were getting their high off other things, I got mine from the smell of Chez Panisse's wood burning oven, trying to imagine the various smells as tastes on my own tongue. Not being able to actually eat there I tried to make it mine another way. I watched Marcel Pagnol's films, basking in what I felt was an insider's understanding of the restaurant's name and then slowly acquired all their cookbooks and started throwing my own "Chez Panisse" dinner parties. Making the food, I absorbed some of the philosophy of the kitchen, internalizing the gospel of fresh seasonal produce. I was forever spoiled for Safeway and ready to out my inner foodie.

Years later, I've thrown dozens of dinner parties, and tried hundreds of restaurants. I love being asked for food recommendations and delight in buying a new Zagat every year to mark and count all the restaurants I've been to. (I know it's totally OCD and I don't care.) When I eat well all my senses are open; a good meal tingles every nerve ending, keeping me fully alert. So it is not surprising that I remember what I eat in great detail.

To me food is sacred. It is light and love and passion. It is history, legacy, memoir. It is art. I am incredibly lucky to live in the Bay Area, where many people share my feelings. At the same time, my inner gourmet is constantly battling the girl who wants to eat healthy and be slim as I try to find a balance. This blog documents my adventures.